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Introducing the Aurora Crop Top crochet pattern—a playful and summery piece that’s sure to brighten up your warm-weather wardrobe. With its delicate lacey border details and the cute bow in the front, this crop top is all about fun! It’s the kind of top that makes you feel effortlessly stylish, whether you’re headed to the beach or enjoying a sunny day out with friends.
The Aurora Crop Top is designed with both comfort and style in mind. It’s light, airy, and perfect for those hot summer days when you want to stay cool but still look put together. Pair it with a simple pair of jeans or a cute skirt, the outfit options are honestly endless!
I created the Aurora Crop Top because I wanted something that captures the carefree spirit of summer—a top that’s both easy to wear and full of personality. This pattern is for anyone who wants to create something special for the warm seasons – it’s a joy to make and even more fun to wear.
An ad-free version of this crochet pattern with helpful graphs and extra images of the crocheting process can be purchased on my Pattern Store.
Redistribution and Selling
This pattern is copyrighted and for personal use only. Sharing or selling any part of, or information from this pattern, is prohibited. You cannot publish (whether it‘s printed or online), reproduce, alter, swap or resell any part of this pattern or the pattern as a whole.
You can sell finished products created using this pattern. You may not use my photos of the finished product to advertise your listing, this is to avoid confusion as our work might differ slightly. When selling online, please link back to my original pattern listing or tag me where possible.
Notes
The top is made by first crocheting two breast cups which are then joined by crocheting across the bottom of the cups in one long row, which will then be wrapped around the body as the base of the top. The borders are added to the cups before the two cups are joined, the borders around the body of the top are added last after the base for the body is done.
This pattern uses US terminology.
This pattern is written in made to measure style, meaning there aren’t exact sizes or stitch numbers to follow. While stitches used to create the sample size are included, you should follow the measure-yourself style instructions and check the fit as you’re working on the piece. This allows you to create the top in any yarn and any size!
This pattern is for intermediate level crocheters. While stitches used for this garment are all quite basic, it does involve some shaping, which might be hard for complete beginners.
You can use any yarn and a matching hook of your choice to create this top. When choosing the yarn, remember that using thinner yarns creates small rows, meaning you’ll need more rows to create a crop top that is your desired size. The opposite applies to using thicker yarn, you’ll need less rows as the stitches are taller.
Materials
- Crochet hook that matches your yarn
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Yarn A – Your choice of yarn for the base of the top | My choice: Knitting Essentials DK in Bright Pink
- Yarn B – Your choice of yarn for the border, details and straps | My choice: Cygnet Pato DK in White
For reference, I used about 50g of Yarn A and 30g of Yarn B with a 4mm hook.
Gauge
As this is a made to measure style pattern, matching gauge is not necessary.
Good to Know
- This is an intermediate level crochet pattern.
- This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- Instructions are given as measurements compared to your body (ex. work until the hat fits around your head) to ensure perfect fit. If working the pattern for someone else, I recommend following measurements in Craft Yarn Council’s size chart.
Stitches & abbreviations
- CH – chain
- ST – stitch
- SL ST – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- HDC – half double crochet
- DC – double crochet
- *…* x times – repeat instructions written in between asterisks specified number of times in total.
- (…) – instructions written between brackets are to be worked into the same stitch.
- {…} – states which colour is to be used for the next stitches.
Aurora Crop Top
Crochet Pattern
Breast Cups
To start working on the breast cups, you’ll need to know how wide you want the middle of the breast cup to be. You’ll then want to calculate how big of a square you’d need for the diagonal of the square to be the width of the breast cup. To do this, you can use the formula d = a√2 where d is the diagonal and a is the side of the square.
The PDF Pattern includes a link to the automatic Square Side Calculator, which will do the work for you.
Using Yarn A and a matching hook, CH the length needed for the side of the square, then + CH1. You’ll be working into the 2nd CH from the hook. The sample has 15 CH + 1 for a total of 16 CH.
Square Row 1. {A} HDC across, CH1 and turn.
Repeat Row 1 until the heigth of your square is equal to the width of your square, this means all sides of the square should be the same size. The sample has 10 more rows of HDCs for 11 rows total.
Cup Row 1. {A} HDC across, then continue working into the side of the square. Work the same number of HDC into the second side of the square, CH1 and turn.
Because the sample had 15 ST per row, it also has 15 HDC worked into the sides of the 11 rows. This means 30 HDC per row.
Note: If you’re struggling with placing the right number of ST into the side of the square, you can treat it as if you were increasing in a regular row and use the Increase & Decrease Calculator to calculate which rows to place 2 ST into.
Cup Row 2. {A} HDC across, CH1 and turn.
Repeat Cup Row 2 until the breast cup is long enough to cover your chest comfortably. As you add more rows, the cup should get wider around the bottom as the stitches have more space to relax and flatten. The sample has 7 more rows of HDCs for 8 rows total.
Fasten off. Repeat from the start to make a 2nd cup.
Breast Cup Border
Attach colour B to the inner corner of one of the breast cups.
The sample has the sides with 15SC worked into the side of the square as inner corners. However, this doesn’t matter too much as the cups should be fairly symmetric thanks to having the same number of ST in each side.
When working the border of the breast cups, you’ll want to work with the right side facing you. Because of this, the process will be different depending on which cup you’re currently working on.
When working into the side of the breast cup first:
Row 1. {B} SC into the side of every row and into every foundation CH of the square, count the SC as you’re working them. (2SC) into the last CH of the square, then (2SC) into the first ST of the side of the square.
Continue to work the same number of SC into the second side of the breast cup. (2SC) into the last ST of the side of the cup, then (2SC) into the first ST of the bottom of the cup.
SC across the bottom of the breast cup, (2SC) into the last ST of the bottom of the cup. SC into the same ST you worked the first SC into, then SL ST to join.
Row 2. {B} CH until the CH is long enough to be tied into a pretty bow on the front of the top, then CH1 for the turning CH. You’ll be working into the 2nd CH from the hook. The sample has 50 CH + 1 for 51 CH in total.
SC across the CH until you reach back to the breast cup, SL ST into the same ST the CH starts from to join the strap, SC into the next ST.
*CH1 and skip 1 ST, into next ST (5DC), CH1 and skip 1 ST, SC* across until you reach the top corner of the breast cup.
- If the last ST in the top corner is 1 SC, continue to work (2DC) into the same ST, then CH3.
- If the last ST in the top corner is supposed to be (5DC), work (3DC) into the last ST instead, then CH3.
- If the last ST in the top corner is supposed to be skipped, work the previous ST as if it was a top corner ST according to the 2 options described before, then skip the last ST.
For the first ST of the second side of the cup, mirror the top corner STs you just did for the previous side. This means, if you worked (SC, 2DC) into the previous corner ST, you’ll now need to work (2DC, SC) into this ST etc.
*CH1 and skip 1 ST, into next ST (5DC), CH1 and skip 1 ST, SC* across until you reach the bottom corner of the breast cup, you should have 2 empty ST in the second side of the cup. Work (SC, CH3, SC) into the first ST, then (2SC) into the last ST of the side of the cup.
Work (2SC) into the first ST of the bottom of the cup, then SC across. (2SC) into the last empty ST, SL ST to join and fasten off.
When working into the bottom of the breast cup first:
Row 1. {B} SC across the bottom of the breast cup, (2SC) into the last CH of the bottom, then (2SC) into the first ST of the side of the square.
Continue to work the same number of SC you worked into the sides of the first breast cup into the side of this cup. (2SC) into the last ST of the first side of the cup, then (2SC) into the first ST of the second side of the cup. Continue working the same number of SC into the second side of the cup, work (2SC) into the last ST of the side of the cup.
Work a second SC into the same ST you worked the first SC into, then SL ST to join and CH1.
Row 2. {B} SC across the bottom of the breast cup, (2SC) into the last ST of the bottom of the breast cup and (2SC) into the first ST of the side of the breast cup.
Into the next ST (SC, CH3, SC), SC into the next ST, then *CH1 and skip 1 ST, into next ST (5DC), CH1 and skip 1 ST, SC* across until you reach the top corner of the breast cup.
Work the top corner of the breast cup the same way you did for the first breast cup.
*CH1 and skip 1 ST, into next ST (5DC), CH1 and skip 1 ST, SC* across the second side of the cup.
SL ST into the next ST, then CH the same number of CHs you did for the first strap and SC across the CH until you reach back to the breast cup, SL ST into the same ST to join.
(2SC)into the the last empty ST, SL ST to join and fasten off.
Body of the Crop Top
Using Yarn A, CH until the CH measures from the side of the bra cup to the middle of your back, ensuring tight fit. The sample has 20 CH.
Row 1. {A} SC into outer corner of the first breast cup, then SC across the bottom of the cup. Without fastening off, SC into the inner corner of the second breast cup and continue to SC across the bottom of the second cup. CH the same number you did on the other side, then + CH1.
For the sample, the first row had 20 CH, then 32 SC across the first cup, 32 SC across the second cup, then 21 CH.
You’ll be working the second row into the 2nd CH from the hook.
Row 2 – 4. {A} HDC across, CH1 and turn.
Row 5. {A} 2 HDC, CH2 and skip 2 ST, HDC across until you have 4 empty ST left, CH2 and skip 2 ST, 2 HDC, CH1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 2 – 5 until you’re happy with the length of the crop top, make sure to work 2 HDC into both CH2 spaces. The sample has 1 extra repeat of Rows 2 – 5 with 5 extra repeats of just Row 2 for added length without needing to add more holes for the laces to tie through. This makes for 14 rows total in the body of the crop top.
Fasten off.
Body Border
With the wrong side of the work facing you, attach Yarn B to the left of the left breast cup.
Row1. {B} SC around the body, working (3SC) into corner STs, ensuring work is even. SL ST into the closest SC of the right breast cup border to join, turn.
Row 2. {B} SC across the top of the body, (3SC) into the corner ST, SC across the side of the body, (3SC) into the corner ST. *CH1 and skip 1 ST, into next ST (5DC), CH1 and skip 1 ST, SC* across the bottom of the body, (3SC) into the corner ST. SC across the side of the body, (3SC) into the corner ST, SC across the top of the body. SL ST into the closest SC of the breast cup border to join.
Fasten off.
Straps
With the wrong side of the work facing you, attach Yarn B to the back of the 2 innermost DC of the top corner of the breast cup.
CH until the CH is long enough to be tied through the loops on the breast cups and the holes in the body of the crop top, then CH1 for the turning CH. You’ll be working into the 2nd CH from the hook. SC across the CH until you reach back to the breast cup, SL ST into the back of the same 2 DC the CH starts from to join the strap and fasten off.
The sample has 250 CH + 1 for 251 CH in total and 250 SC.
Repeat on the other breast cup to create the second strap.
Fasten off, weave in the ends and….
Congrats! You’ve done it! ❤
