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Introducing the Callidora Crochet Crop Top pattern—a seductive crop top perfect for hot summer nights. With its backless, strappy design, this top adds a touch of allure to any ensemble. Crafted with the timeless charm of granny stitches, the Callidora Crop Top is both stylish and sophisticated, perfect for making a statement on a night out or soaking up the sun at a beach party.
What sets the Callidora Crop Top apart is its daring design, featuring a sultry backless silhouette and intricate strappy details. This pattern allows you to showcase your crochet skills while embracing your inner confidence and femininity. Whether you pair it with high-waisted jeans for a casual-chic look or layer it under a blazer for a night on the town, this crop top is sure to turn heads and make you feel fabulous.
The decision to design the Callidora Crop Top pattern was inspired by a desire to blend classic crochet techniques with modern fashion trends. I wanted to create a garment that exudes both elegance and sensuality, allowing crocheters to express their unique style and personality. With its flattering fit and eye-catching design, the Callidora Crop Top is a must-have addition to any fashion-forward wardrobe. So, grab your crochet hook and unleash your creativity with this irresistible crochet pattern!
Looking for ways to accessorise your new top? Try the Callidora Mesh Shrug to complete your outfit!
An ad-free version of this crochet pattern with helpful graphs and extra images of the crocheting process can be purchased on my Pattern Store.
Redistribution and Selling
This pattern is copyrighted and for personal use only. Sharing or selling any part of, or information from this pattern, is prohibited. You cannot publish (whether its printed or online), reproduce, alter, swap or resell any part of this pattern or the pattern as whole.
You can sell finished products created using this pattern. You may not use my photos of the finished product to advertise your listing, this is to avoid confusion as our work might differ slightly. When selling online, please link back to my original pattern listing or tag me where possible.
Notes
- The crop top is made by crocheting two separate granny pentagons and a granny triangle. The three pieces are then joined together to make the crop top shape. A border is crocheted along the outside of the crop top, creating long straps and loops for the straps to be tied through.
- This pattern uses US terminology.
- This pattern is written in made to measure style, meaning there aren’t exact sizes or stitch numbers to follow. While stitches used to create the sample size are included, you should follow the measure-yourself style instructions and check the fit as you’re working on the piece. This allows you to create the top in literally any size and achieve the perfect fit every time!
- This pattern is for beginner level crocheters. The shapes are worked up similarly to traditional granny squares, using a simple double crochet stitch. This makes it the perfect project for beginners wanting to venture into creating wearables.
- You can use any yarn and a matching hook of your choice to create this top. When choosing the yarn, remember that using thinner yarns means you might have to add more rows to reach the desired size. The reverse applies to thicker yarn as well, the rows will be taller and you’ll need less rows to achieve the desired size for your crop top.
Materials
- Crochet hook that matches your yarn, go up 2 sizes.
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Yarn A – Your choice of yarn for the crop top | My choice: Stylecraft Special DK in Peony
For reference, I used about 50g of Yarn A with a 6mm hook.
Gauge
As this is a made to measure style pattern, matching gauge is not necessary.
Good to Know
- This is a beginner level crochet pattern.
- This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- Instructions are given as measurements compared to your body (ex. work until the hat fits around your head) to ensure perfect fit. If working the pattern for someone else, I recommend following measurements in Craft Yarn Council’s size chart.
- To avoid doing the magic ring, you can CH2 and SL ST back into the first CH. You’ll then work into the circle you just created instead of a magic ring.
- CH2 at the start of the round counts as DC.
- CH3 at the start of the round counts as DC + CH1.
Stitches & Abbreviations
- CH – chain
- ST – stitch
- SL ST – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- MR – magic ring
- P – picot
- *…* x times – repeat instructions written in between asterisks specified number of times.
- (…) – instructions written between brackets are to be worked into the same stitch.
Callidora Crochet Crop Top Pattern
Granny Pentagons for the Crochet Crop Top
Using Yarn A and a matching hook, MR and CH2 to start.
Row 1. (2DC, CH2, *3DC, CH2* repeat 4 times), SL ST into top of CH2, turn.
Row 2. SL ST into CH2 space. Into the same CH2 space (CH2, 2DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1), *into next CH2 space (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1)* repeat 4 times, SL ST into top of CH2, turn.
Row 3. SL ST into CH1 space, into the same CH1 space (CH2, 2DC, CH1), *into next CH2 space (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1), into next CH1 space (3DC, CH1)* repeat 4 times, into next CH2 space (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1), SL ST into top of CH2, turn.
Continue repeating Row 3 and adding an extra DC cluster per row until the pentagon is big enough to act as one of the breast cups for the crop top. The sample has 6 rows total.
Fasten off. Repeat to make the second pentagon.
Note: For people with bigger busts, extending one side of the pentagon can offer more support and coverage on the sides without building the height of the cups up too much. To do this, attach yarn to one of the corner CH2 spaces, work a CH3 (counts as DC + CH1) and a cluster into the same corner space, then work clusters as normal across one side of the pentagon only. Once you reach the second corner space, work a cluster as well as CH1 and a DC into the corner space. You can turn and keep working additional rows until you feel there’s enough coverage on the sides.
Granny Triangle for the Crochet Crop Top
Using Yarn A and a matching hook, MR and CH2 to start.
Row 1. CH1, (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1, DC), CH3 and turn.
Row 2. Into CH1 space (3DC, CH1), into next CH2 space (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1), into next CH1 space (3DC, CH1), DC into top of CH2, CH3 and turn.
Row 3. *Into CH1 space (3DC, CH1)* repeat 2 times, into next CH2 space (3DC, CH2, 3DC, CH1) , *into next CH1 space (3DC, CH1)* repeat 2 times, DC into top of CH2, CH3 and turn.
Continue working rows and adding an extra DC cluster per row until the triangle is big enough for the bottom (the longest side) of it to cover the bottom sides of both pentagons. This should be roughly double the number of rows in the pentagons. For the sample, this was 11 rows.
Fasten off.
Note: For people with tighter tension, the triangle might curve slightly when working it up. In most case, this is not an issue as the triangle will be straightened out upon assembly. However, if the curve is too much for your liking, you can try using a bigger hook to loosen tension or using a CH4 and TR (treble) at the start and end of the rows instead.
Assembly
Place the granny triangle on the bottom and the granny pentagons on top of the triangle with the flat bottom sides of the pentagons matching up with the longest side of the triangle. The corner of the triangle with two clusters in it should be facing downwards, almost like a big arrowhead.
You’ll then want to fold the pentagons down onto the triangle so the long side of the triangle and the bottoms of the pentagons are still touching. The right sides of the shapes should be facing each other. Attach Yarn A to the rightmost stitch of either shape and continue to SC through both shapes to join them together.
A DC cluster of the pentagon should end up in every other CH space of the triangle. You’ll be working a SC into every DC of the clusters of the pentagon (3SC per cluster/3SC per triangle CH space with a cluster attached to it) and one SC into every empty CH space of the pentagons (also means just one SC in every triangle CH space without a cluster attached to it).
Once you’re done with the first pentagon, attach the next pentagon and keep moving to the left to join both pentagons to the triangle. The pentagons should meet in the middle of the triangle, inside the MR of it.
Border
Without fastening off, turn the work so the right side of the top is facing you and you’re working into the side of the granny triangle.
Sides of the triangle. SC into CH space , *SC into next 3 DC for 3SC total, into next CH space (SC, CH3 P, SC)* repeat down the side of the triangle, you should also (SC, CH3 P, SC) into the CH2 corner space of the triangle. Then *SC into next 3 DC for 3SC total, into next CH space (SC, CH3 P, SC)* repeat down the other side of the triangle.
Sides of first pentagon. Into corner CH2 space (SC, CH3, SC), do NOT picot – this creates a loop for the strap to go through. *SC into the 3 DC, SC into CH1 space* repeat until you reach next CH2 corner space. Into corner CH2 space (SC, CH3, SC), do NOT picot. *SC into the 3 DC, SC into CH1 space* repeat until you reach next CH2 corner space.
First strap/top corner of first pentagon. SC into CH2 space, then CH to create the length of the strap. The sample has 150 CH. SL ST back down the CH, then SC back into the same CH2 space.
Top sides of both pentagons. *SC into the 3 DC, SC into CH1 space* repeat until you reach next CH2 corner space. SC into CH2 space of first pentagon, then SC into CH2 corner of the second pentagon to join them together. *SC into the 3 DC, SC into CH1 space* repeat until you reach next CH2 corner space.
Second strap/top corner of second pentagon. SC into CH2 space, then CH to create the length of the strap. Make sure the CH is the same length as the previous strap. SL ST back down the CH, then SC back into the same CH2 space.
Sides of second pentagon. * **SC into the 3 DC, SC into CH1 space** repeat until you reach next CH2 corner space. Into corner CH2 space (SC, CH3, SC), do NOT picot.* repeat 2 times.
You should now have reached back to the same corner of the join between the triangle and pentagon where you started. SL ST into the very first SC of the border to join.
Notes: Most testers used between 200 – 300 CH for the straps, depending on yarn weight and size of the model. When in doubt, CH more rather than less as it’s easier to tie a long CH into a bigger bow to counter the long straps but you’ll need to frog and redo the border if the straps are too short.
If the opening on the front of the top is too big/wide for you to wear it comfortably, I recommend either getting a bit of ribbon or making a medium length string of CH to weave through the opening and tie into a bow. This way you can choose how much you want to show and how open you want it to be. You can weave the ribbon/CH through the opening in many different ways, such as just in the middle of the opening or going through both sides corset style and pulling the whole slit tighter.
Fasten off, weave in the ends and….
Congrats! You’ve done it! ❤
