How to Make Crochet Fingerless Gloves – Free Crochet Pattern

Introducing the Cozy Cuddles Crochet Fingerless Gloves pattern—a perfect complement to the Cozy Cuddles Kitty Hat for a matching set that’s as charming as it is cozy. Inspired by the same playful spirit and warmth of the viral TikTok kitty hats, these fingerless gloves add a touch of whimsy to your winter ensemble. Crafted with warm yarn and featuring textured stitches reminiscent of cuddly kitty fur, these hand warmers are both practical and adorable.

What makes the Cozy Cuddles Hand Warmers truly special is their versatility. Whether you’re typing away at your keyboard, texting on your phone, or simply enjoying a brisk winter walk, these fingerless gloves keep your hands toasty while allowing full mobility and dexterity. The textured stitches not only add visual interest but also provide extra insulation, ensuring your hands stay warm and snug even on the coldest days.

Just like their hat counterpart, the Cozy Cuddles Hand Warmers were designed with a focus on spreading joy and warmth through crochet. As a passionate crafter, I wanted to create a matching set that embodies the cozy comfort and playful charm of the viral TikTok trend. Crocheting these hand warmers is not just about making a practical accessory—it’s about infusing each stitch with love and creativity, creating a handmade piece that brings joy and comfort with every wear.

Pair your fingerless gloves with the matching Cozy Cuddles Kitty Hat for warm winter vibes!

An ad-free version of this crochet pattern with helpful graphs, a video stitch guide and extra images of the crocheting process can be purchased on my Pattern Store.

Redistribution and Selling

This pattern is copyrighted and for personal use only. Sharing or selling any part of, or information from this pattern, is prohibited. You cannot publish (wether its printed or online), reproduce, alter, swap or resell any part of this pattern or the pattern as whole.

You can sell finished products created using this pattern. You may not use my photos of the finished product to advertise your listing, this is to avoid confusion as our work might differ slightly. When selling online, please link back to my original pattern listing or tag me where possible.

Notes

• The gloves are worked in one flat rectangular panel, which is then joined at the side to create the fingerless glove shape. Small bows are then crocheted separately and sewed onto the gloves for decoration.
• This pattern uses US terminology.
• This pattern is written in made to measure style, meaning there aren’t exact sizes or stitch numbers to follow. While stitches used to create the sample size are included, you should follow the measure-yourself style instructions and check the fit as you’re working on the piece. This allows you to create the gloves in literally any size and achieve the perfect fit every time!
• This pattern is for adventurous beginners or advanced beginner level crocheters. While the shaping and construction of the gloves are fairly simple for beginners to follow, it does use stitches that complete beginners might not be familiar with – the herringbone stitch and the waistcoat stitch. Even if you’re not familiar with the mentioned stitches, the pattern will go over how to work them, making it a perfect way to take on the adventure of practicing new stitches.
• You can use any yarn and a matching hook of your choice to create these gloves. When choosing the yarn, remember that using thinner yarns creates thinner ribbing and therefore changes the texture slightly. If you wish to use thinner yarn, you can hold it double (hold two strands together and work with those two strands as you would with just one) and work with a bigger hook to create thicker ribbing. For example, the sample was created by holding a DK size yarn double.
• When creating the bow, you can either opt for a lacy texture (similar to the sample) by working with a thinner yarn and a bigger hook or create a more opaque and solid bow by crocheting with a hook that matches your chosen yarn’s label.

Materials

• Crochet hooks that match your yarn
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• Ribbon (optional)
• Yarn A – Your choice of yarn for the gloves. I recommend choosing a chunkier yarn or holding a DK/weight #3 yarn double when wanting to mimic the texture of the sample gloves exactly | My choice: Cygnet Pato DK in White
• Yarn B – Your choice of yarn for the bows. I recommend using a thinner yarn such as weight #1 or #2 yarn with a bigger (3 – 4mm) crochet hook when mimicking the lacy texture of the sample bows | My choice: James C Brett Baby 3 Ply in White

For reference, I used about 50g of Yarn A held double with a 6mm crochet hook for the base of the gloves. For the bows, I used Yarn B with a 3,5mm crochet hook.

Gauge

As this is a made to measure style pattern, matching gauge is not necessary.

Good to Know

• This is an advanced beginner level crochet pattern.
• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• Instructions are given as measurements compared to your body (ex. work until the hat fits around your head) to ensure perfect fit. If working the pattern for someone else, I recommend following average hand size/glove measurements where measuring isn’t an option.
• When working with WC, going up a hook size can make working the stitch easier.
• If the brim of the glove makes the glove too small to fit, try loosening your tension for the WC stitch or go up a hook size or two. Alternatively, you can add extra stitches if necessary.

Stitches & Abbreviations

• CH – chain
• ST – stitch
• SL ST – slip stitch
• SC – single crochet
• HDC – half double crochet 
• DC – double crochet
• HBS – herringbone stitch 
• WC – waistcoat stitch 
• BLO – back loop only

How to Crochet the Herringbone Stitch

When practicing the herringbone stitch, start with any number of CH + 1, you’ll be working into the 2nd CH from the hook. You’ll start the row by doing a simple HDC as the first stitch. After that’s done, you’re ready to do the actual herringbone stitch.

Step 1. Pick up the leftmost loop of the HDC by pushing your hook through under it, keep it on your hook.
Step 2. Go through the next CH and pull up a loop as you would when doing a SC. You now have 3 loops on your hook.
Step 3. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. You have now completed the first stitch! This also creates a new leftmost loop for you to go under when working the next stitch.

You’ll notice this stitch creates diagonal lines moving across the row, mimicking the horizontal herringbone stitch in knitting.

How to Crochet the Waistcoat Stitch

Like any other stitch, the waistcoat stitch starts by CH your desired amount. You’ll then need to CH + 1 and work a row of SC across.

Since you already know how to SC, you also know how to do the waistcoat stitch! The difference is, instead of working into the hole beside the stitch like you do for SC, you will be working into the backwards V in between the legs of the stitch. Work a SC through the legs and thats it, that’s the waistcoat stitch!

You’ll notice the Vs will be placed inside each other as you add more rows, mimicking the stockinette stitch in knitting.

Cozy Cuddles Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

Buy PDF Pattern

Add to Ravelry

Base of the Crochet Fingerless Gloves

Using Yarn A and a matching hook, CH to create the length of the glove + CH1. You’ll be working into the 2nd CH from the hook. The sample has 30 CH + 1 for 31 CH total.

It’s important to note that you’re not chaining the total length of the glove but the length of the ribbed base section of the glove, the brim will be added on later.

Row 1. HDC, HBS across, CH1 and turn.
Row 2. BLO HDC, BLO HBS across, CH1 and turn.

When counting ST, you should have the same amount of ST total as you had CH in the beginning. This means you’ll have one less HBS per row than you had CH. For the sample, this means 1 HDC and 29 HBS per row for 30 ST total per row.

Repeat Row 2 until your rectangular panel is long enough to fit around your hand comfortably. Because HBS ribbing doesn’t have as much stretch as regular SC ribbing, you don’t want it to be too tight or the glove will cause discomfort. Remember to make it fit the widest part of your hand, not just the wrist! The sample has 18 rows in total.

You should now have a long rectangle where the height of the rectangle is the length of the glove and the width of the rectangle is the circumference of the glove.

Without fastening off, fold the rectangular panel in half with the right sides facing inwards.

This part of the pattern doesn’t have a decided right or wrong side as the two sides should be pretty much identical. Just pick your favourite side and count that as the right side.

Pinch the open sides of the glove together and turn so you‘re working alongside the side of the glove. SC through both sides of the panel (through the beginning CH of the first row and BLO of the last row) to join. Once you get to where you want the thumb hole to be, SL ST through ONE side only until the hole is big enough, then continue SC through both sides to finish joining. Turn the glove inside out to reveal the right side of the glove and hide the seams on the inside.

You should have the same number of ST in the side seam as you had in the rows of the panel. The sample has 30 ST in the side seam – 4 SL ST and 26 SC total.

Brim of the Crochet Fingerless Gloves

With the right side (outside of the glove) facing towards you, start working into the ST next to the side seam line on the bottom of the glove. Work a SC into the side of every row to create the first round, SL ST to join and CH1.

Round 1. SC around, SL ST to join and CH1. 
Round 2. WC around, SL ST to join and CH1.

When counting ST, you should have the same amount of ST per round as you had rows in the rectangular panel. The sample has 18 SC worked around the bottom of the glove and 18 WC per round in the brim.

Repeat Row 2 until you’re happy with the length of the brim and fasten off. The sample has 3 rows of WC stitch.

Bows for the Crochet Fingerless Gloves

With Yarn B and a matching hook, CH to create double the desired length of the finished bow + CH2.You’ll be working into the 3rd CH from the hook. The sample has 30 CH + 2 for 32 CH total.

Row 1. DC across, CH2 and turn.

When counting ST, you should have the same amount of ST total as you had CH in the beginning. For the sample, this means 30DC per row.

Repeat Row 1 until you reach your desired height of the bow, fasten off by leaving a long end. The sample had 3 rows total per bow.

To create the final bow, you’ll want to locate the middle point of the rectangular panel and fold both sides inwards so the outer edges meet in the middle. You’re essentially folding the panel in half but moving the seam to the middle rather than leaving it on the side. Use the long end to sew the sides down so the folded panel keeps it’s shape. Wrap the long end of yarn around the middle of the bow a few times to create a neat looking middle section, pull the middle part of the panel tight to create a bow look and hide the seam all in one action. Sew through the middle using small stitches a few times to make sure the bow doesn’t unravel. You can now use the long end to sew the bow onto the glove. I sewed it onto the HBS section, in the middle of the top of the hand. You can place the bow in any way that looks good to you!

If you like the layered bow look that the sample has, you should weave a satin ribbon onto the top of the glove, using your crochet hook to pull it through the high parts of the HBS ribbing. I worked the ribbon from the top downwards, then tied the ends into a bow at the bottom. I then sewed the crocheted bow on top of the ribbon bow for a layered look. If you don’t have ribbon on hand but want the weaved look, you can make a long CH and weave that through the high parts of the ribbing instead.

Repeat from the start to make a second glove. Weave in the ends and….

Congrats! You’ve done it! ❤